The City Walk - part two: hidden London
"I came suddenly upon such knotty problems of
alleys, such enigmatical entries, and such
sphinx's riddles of streets without thoroughfares,
as must, I conceive, baffle the audacity of
porters, and confound the intellects of
hackney-coachmen. I could almost have believed, at
times, that I must be the first discoverer of some
of these terrae incognitae, and doubted whether
they had yet been laid down in the modern charts
of London"
Thomas de Quincey, The London Magazine, 1821
In part
one we ended up at Old Bailey - if you're continuing
the walk then head due south onto Ludgate Broadway
and Lane, - and down onto Queen Victoria Street,
near Blackfriars Tube. If you're doing the walk as a
separate entity, begin at Blackfriars Tube This part
of the walk focuses on passageways and alleyways
which criss-cross many of the areas of the city,
forming a warren in which it is easy to get lost -
remember many of the smaller courtyards and
alleyways won't be on the map.
A
subway exit from the tube brings you out on Queen
Victoria Street opposite the College
of Arms - which apart from tracing family
coats of arms, is the home of the heralds, who are
responsible for the pomp and circumstance at state
ceremonies, such as coronations, state funerals and
the opening of Parliament. Their other work is
genealogy and they can trace a family, if it
originated in England, for a fee - they have the
best archives in Europe. Only the front quad is
regularly open though you can book a fascinating
tour - see their website.
On the corner
of Queen Victoria Street and New Bridge Road is the
Black Friar pub one
of the most beautiful in England - noted for its
Pre-Raphaelite murals inside. It's sadly only open
Monday-Friday, but definitely worth going into if
it's open.
Behind the Black Friar is Blackfriars lane, which
leads up into Apothecary Lane. On your right half
way up is Apothecaries' Hall,
in a pleasant courtyard, open during office hours,
that also houses the Honourable Company of Spectacle
Makers. It has the finest preserved old offices of
any guild, virtually unchanged since 1700. You can visit
the hall by prior arrangement by contacting
the beadle or clerk Tel: 0207 236 1189. 
At the top of the road (which becomes Ludgate
Broadway), turn right into Playhouse Yard, which
itself becomes Ireland Yard before it hits St
Andrews Hill. Down on your right is St Andrew's by the Wardrobe
church - a beautiful old building, often used as a
backdrop in historical films. Sadly the interior
doesn't live up to te promise of the exterior. When
we were last there, a film version of Nicholas
Nickleby was being shot.
Retracing our steps north up St
Andrew's Hill we turn right into Carter Lane. On
your right - not on the map - is the Wardrobe - a courtyard
recently restored, where the King used to robe
himself for ceremonial occasions, a plaque on the
wall commemorates the destruction of the original
building in the great fire of 1666. There are
luxurious studios and apartments to be hired here if
you prefer that to a hotel.
If your budget is at the other end of the scale,
opposite the entrance to the courtyard is the
italianate facade of the city youth hostel. We walk
past it and emerge opposite St
Paul's Cathedral.
Continue along Cannon Street - if you are a fan of
old churches, to your right, south on Garlick Hill
is St
James Garlickhythe. Founded in the 1100s it
was rebuilt after the great fire in 1680 by Wren. If
you ask nicely they'll show you the mummified body,
though the 10 Lord Mayors of London buried in the
crypt are no longer on view.
Also off Cannon Street, but north is Bow lane, which is flanked
with pleasant courtyards, shops and pubs. Turn right
on Watling Street - an extension of the ancient
Roman road that links London and Dover, in a
straight line. Here is the Church of St Mary Aldermary which has
a magnificent painted organ dating from 1781 -
please give some small change to their organ
restoration fund as otherwise the organ may not be
there next time you visit. Backtrack and continue up
Bow Lane.
The title 'Aldermary' means that it's
older than Mary-le-Bow
at the top of Bow lane but the latter is world
famous as being the home of Bow Bells. If you're
born within hearing of them you're a cockney (from
the anglo- saxon word for rotten egg').
Tuning east on Cheapside (a
cheap was a market in old English) we take King
Street up to the Guildhall at the top. Dating back to
Edward-the-Confessor whose death prompted the Norman
Invasion of 1066. It's the official seat of the Lord
Mayor of London - indeed part of the original
building was paid for with money the famous 'Dick
Whittington' left in his will. Most of the building
however, dates back to 1440, and the exterior walls
survived the Great Fire, and the Blitz, though the
interior portions were somewhat burned - large
portions of the medieaval structure surviving,
though displaced. We think the modern additions to
the courtyard spoil the effect of the original
building. The art gallery
has several important works including significant
collection of pre-Raphaelites.
Cross the courtyard and exit on the right into
Basinghall St, and take the passageway marked
'Masons' Avenue' then across Great Bell Alley,
another small passageway which opens onto Moorgate.
Opposite is Telegraph Street, follow that through to
Copthall Place and through to Throgmorton
Avenue, a private road owned by the
Drapers' Guild.
Behind a wall is the garden of the Drapers' Hall (you can see
the greenery and fountain through the gate which
used to be where Oliver Cromwell lived. The
carpenters' Guild maintain their Hall at the
opposite end. An interesting route, if it's pub
opening hours, is through the underground pub, the
Throgmorton, which has an entrance underneath
Drapers' Hall and comes out on Throgmorton St - via
a long set of dining rooms (not very good food), the
mosaic bar and staircase. The pub is one storey
below ground, but its rooms extend even below that.
The entrance on Throgmorton St is close to the end
of Austin Friars, home to the Dutch Kerk of London -
between the two is the fine old entrance to Drapers'
Hall. 
Opposite the entrance to Austin Friars is the
entrance to Adam's Court - there is significant
building work going on here and it is periodically
shut, if so an alternative route to Fountain Court is alongside
the Natwest Tower, the
city's tallest building and the only one that merits
the term 'skyscraper'. Fountain court in turn leads
through out onto Threadneedle Street, coming out at
number 40. As number 42 is a fine old wine bar,
Balls Brothers, unmarked, but worth looking into.
On the other side of Threadneedle Street is Merchant Taylors' Hall
which dates back to 1347, only having lost its roof
in the Great Fire. it was here that the National
Anthem was first sung, in 1607. 
Walk east along Threadneedle street to
where it joins Bishopsgate at Gibson Hall. On the
other side of the road, a couple of hundred metres
north is the entrance to Great St Helen's, where
you'll see St Helen's Church
It is an old church which has the largest number of
monuments than any other church other than
Westminster Abbey - it's also run by a very friendly
and helpful parish team. Its unusual shape is the
result of the amalgamation of a nunnery and a parish
church on the site. Shakespeare
worshiped here. There are fine monuments to dead
15thC noblemen, and to Sir Thomas Gresham, who
founded the Royal Exchange - look out for the
grasshoppers carved on the tomb. A guide to the
other monuments can be purchased for 60 pence.

When you've visited the church, go
round the back to St Mary Axe a street that leads
down, past the ancient guild church of the same
name, to the ultra-modern Lloyds of London building
which you can't fail to miss - it was a practice run
for the Pompidou Centre in Paris. You can go inside
and see the insurance brokers at work.
It stands at one corner of Leadenhall market a
stunning Victorian covered market, at lunchtimes
it's a bizarre mix of 19th and 20th century, with
bankers and market traders sipping beer amid
well-preserved victualers. Go south out of the
market on Lime Street you'll come to Fenchurch
Street, turn right and cross Bishopsgate once again
to Lombard Street.
Between Lombard Street and Cornhill to the north is
a warren of passageways which can be accessed from
Birchin Street via Bengal Court. Here is The George and Vulture a
restaurant/chophouse/pub that's full of Victorian
atmosphere. Round the corner up St Michael's Alley
and left on Castle court is the entrance to its major
rival, Simpsons of Cornhill a Victorian chophouse
serving cheap grills. The clientele is very formally
dressed, and if the weather is fine you can eat out
in Ball Court.
Explore the maze of alleyways behind St Michael Cornhill and
emerge from Ball Court onto Cornhill. St Michael's
with its azure vault, has the distinction of being
built by Wren, and modified by both Hawksmoor and by
Gilbert Scott.
Follow Cornhill west (note the number of
old banks that have been converted to pubs along
this and neighbouring streets) to the Royal Exchange .
It was founded as a place for merchants to conduct
business - they had been doing so informally on
Lombard street (actually in the street) for hundreds
of years, but Sir Richard Gresham, a member of the
English Merchant Adventurer's company which had its
headquarters in Antwerp, decided to build a copy of
the bourse there on his return. Finance and Royal
Assent was not forthcoming and it was his son who
carried the mission to completion, following in his
father's footsteps. He used a lot of his own money
to build the bourse, but the land was paid for by
subscription from merchants. Work started in 1566 - and when Queen
Elizabeth toured in 1570 she was impressed and gave
it a Royal charter. The building was rebuilt after
the Great Fire, and never really became the success
Gresham had hoped for - it fell out of use in 1939,
became offices, and is now luxury shops. Do go in
and have a look at the set of 20 or so patriotic
Victorial murals, you have to go up onto the gallery
to see them. 
The intersection of roads, known simply as 'Bank' is
completed by the 'old lady of Threadneedle street' -
better known as the Bank of
England ( it has a small museum that's not
worth the detour unless you're a fan of currency) at the North side - and the Mansion House at the west.
This is the official residence of the Lord Mayor of
London for his or her year of office. It dates from
1739, and was much altered by the Victorians, and
damaged during the war, but has now been restored to
its original order.
On the west side of the Mansion house is St Stephen's Walbrook - a
beautiful old church, with perfect acoustics, Wren's
model for St Pauls, also noted for being the
founding place of the Samaritans. 
Take the passageway that runs between the Church and
the back of the Mansion house to come out on King
William Street where St Mary
Woolnoth a pleasant small church with a
fine altarpiece, stands on the corner with Lombard
Street. Look south and you'll see the Monument at the bottom of
the street, before we get there, however, take a
detour through St Mary
Abchurch churchyard, off Abchurch Street.
It's one of the prettiest of Wren's churches, with
the best collection of wood fittings (including
rederos by Grinling Gibbons) of any church in
London. It's a guild church and only occasionally
opens.
The churchyard leads through to Sherbourne lane
which comes out in Cannon Street. Turn left on
Cannon Street to get to Wren's Monument, to the
great fire, which started near here in Pudding Lane
(the golden orb at the top, if the column was lain
down would mark the very place where the fire
started). You can climb to the top via the narrow
staircase, the ticket is incorporated with a ticket
for Tower Bridge. The cage at the top was installed
after it became a favourite place for disgraced (ie
pregnant) women to commit suicide.
To the east of the Monument, via a
series of passageways that run due east, is St Dunstans-in-the East
church, on St Dunstan's Hill, which has a very
beautiful walled garden, in the ruins of the old
church, a haven of tranquility in the city. St
Dunstan's Hill wends down to Lower Thames street,
coming out opposite the old Billingsgate
market, now offices, but famous for its
porters' foul language when it was still London's
main fish market. Walk along Lower Thames street
west and you'll come to St
Magnus Martyr church, which TS Eliot
described in his poem 'The Waste Land' and is full
of monuments - it's closed on Mondays.
This is where our tour ends. Monument tube station
is 100 yards to the north.
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